Siamese Fighting Fish
Tips From Aquarium Center

The Siamese Fighting Fish, or Betta (Betta splendens) is a member of the  sub-order of fish called Anabantoidei.  The anabantoids are equipped with a unique breathing organ which allows them to gulp air directly from the surface.  In this way they supplement oxygen received through their gills.

They are originally from southeast Asia, where they live in seasonally flooded fields.  When the water receded, individual fish ended up in small puddles of water, and in  order to survive, nature gave them the ability to breath surface air.  Often, in aquarium shops,  they are kept in small cups of water.  Although they may seem cramped, they have  evolved to be more  comfortable in small amounts of water with minimal disturbance from turbulence or other fish.

Their reputation for  fighting evolves from the space limitation that the shrinking puddles provided.  One small puddle simply could not support more than one fish, and dominant males will kill weaker males in order to maintain  adequate space and air.  Often females will also be attacked and killed if the pair is not ready to spawn.  There  is a misconception that they will attack other fish; however, they may usually be kept peacefully with other community  fish as long as prospective tank mates are not fin  nippers.
They prefer warmer water temperatures of 77-82 degrees, but usually  can be  maintained in cooler environments.  As such, they can make perfect pets for small, unheated bowls, as long as the room temperature remains above 70 degrees.

Keeping Your Betta

Small bowls are fine, but a larger size of at least one gallon is better. Fill your bowl with water.  Either use a thermometer so that the water temperature is between 70-74 degrees and  a dechlorinator to remove  chlorine from the  water, or allow the water to  sit  in the bowl for 24 hours to allow the water temperature to adjust to room  temperature and for the chlorine to  evaporate.

Small fish-safe decorations can be used.  Items purchased for other than  fish aquarium use should be avoided since they can leach harmful materials into the water.

Net your betta from the cup  into  your bowl if the temperature in the bowl has been allowed to adjust to the temperature  in the cup; the cup  containing the betta can be floated in the bowl for 20 minutes if the temperature  is in doubt.

Bettas have short digestive tracts which are adapted to eating animal matter; they eat very little algae or green  foods.  Insect or worm based foods are ideal, and they seem to be most attracted to dried blood worms.  Live tubifex  worms provide a supplemental treat.  An  interesting side benefit is that they will often eat snails in an aquarium.

They need regular water changes.  Bettas kept in cups and small bowls should be changed  2 or 3  times a week.   A    one gallon bowl should be changed weekly,  and larger   bowls  should be changed at least every  2 weeks.   To change the water,  carefully net your betta back  into its original  cup and repeat the steps  outlined above.

Making Your Betta Happy

Bettas are ideal pets for students or others with limited space, time or money.  Like all fish, they can  be left for extended weekends or short vacations  with little concern.  We recommend that you do not overfeed  them in anticipation of your  absence; the additional food is likely to foul the  water and may  possibly kill them.  If you plan to be away beyond their usual  water change date, do an additional change.

Bettas can be kept in any small cup, bowl or aquarium.  Containers of this size are always  unfiltered and unheated.  Most other tropical fish require consistent temperature control, and there are no adequate  heaters designed for less than 4 gallons.  Other fish may also require additional food leading to water quality problems.  In small containers, it is best to  keep them alone. 

Goldfish should never be kept with bettas.  These 2 fish are from different environments, require different foods, and have different general maintenance requirements.   Goldfish are  much dirtier than Bettas and require additional cleaning and care.  We recommend that the two fish never be maintained in the same bowl or aquarium environment.

Betta Plant Vases

In recent years the Betta Plant Vase has become popular.  Essentially, this is a vase with a plant growing out of it and with a betta living in the water.  The Betta Plant Vase is often marketed as a self-sustaining environment which needs no care or feeding.  Here are the facts.

Betta Plant Vases are easy to care for but need regular water changes.   Bowls that are not changed regularly will look dirty as algae and slime begin to coat the glass.  Change schedules are the same as indicated in the Keeping Your Betta section.

Bettas kept in Plant Vases need to be fed.  Again, as in the Keeping  Your Betta section, bettas are adapted to eating animal matter and eat little green food.  They cannot survive by eating off the plants.

The most commonly used plant is one of the several Peace Lilly varieties.  It must be thoroughly cleaned before use and the crown is held out of the water with a plastic cup.  There must be an air gap between the water surface and the bottom of the cup  in order to keep the air-breathing betta from drowning.

Recommended Items For Care

Food
Thermometer
Water Conditioner
Small Net

Did you know....
....that the Siamese Fighting Fish is one of our more  misunderstood fish

Well, it is!
The Siamese Fighting fish
Betta Splendens

tips from
Aquarium Center

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(928) 526-1469

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